Rational Horse Shoeing and Wagon Making
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with rules, tables, recipes, etc., useful to
manufactures, blacksmiths, machinists,
well-drillers, engineers, liverymen,
horse-shoers, farmers, wagon-makers,
mechanics, amateurs and all others who have
occasion to perform the work for which this
book is primarily intended.
old whim about the fire that everybody, farmers and others, as
well as blacksmiths are infected with, and that is, if a piece of
brass is put in the fire it renders the fire useless to weld with.
Now, while it is a fact that brass is not conducive to welding it
takes a good deal of it before the fire is made useless. One
smith will not dare to heat a galvanized pipe in his fire, for fear
it will spoil it, while another smith will weld a piece of iron or
steel to such a pipe without difficulty. Don't swear and curse if
the fire is not what you expect it to be, but simply make it right.
Some smiths have the habit of continually poking in the fire, if
they weld a piece of iron they never give it rest enough to get
hot, but turn it over from one side to another and try to fish up
all the cinders and dust to be found in the fire. This is a bad
habit. Yellow colored fire is a sign of sulphur in the fire and
makes a poor fire for welding. Dead coal makes a poor fire.
One of the chief
reasons for a poor fire
is a poor blast. No
patent tuyer will give
blast enough unless
you run it by steam and
have a fan blower.
Ninety per cent of the
blast is lost in
transmission through
patent tuyers. The only
way to get a good blast
is to have a direct
tuyer, and one with a
water space in.
To make a direct tuyer
take a pipe 1 ¼ x 12
inches long, weld
around one end of this
pipe an iron 3 5/8 to
make it thick on the
end that is in the fire,
flare out the other end
fire. The only objection to this tuyer is that where soft coal is used, as is mostly the case in country shops, it gets hot
and clogs up, but with a strong blast and good hard coal it never gets hot, provided the fire is deep enough. From
five to eight inches is the right distance from the tuyer to the face of the fire. In factories this kind of tuyer is used,
and I have seen them used for ten years, and never found them to clog once. The tuyer was just as good after ten
years use as it was when put in.
To make a water tuyer take a pipe 1 ¼ x 12, weld a flange on each end for water space, now weld another pipe over
this, and bore holes for 1/4 inch pipes in the end, where the blast goes in. One hole on the lower or bottom side
should be for the cold water to go in through, and one hole on the upper side for the hot water to go out through.
These pipes to connect with a little water tank for this purpose. The pipes should be watched so that they will not be
allowed to freeze or clog, as an explosion might follow. These tuyers never clog. I now use one that I have made as
above described. The dealers now have them to sell. Any smith can get them as they are hard to make by the
average smith.
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