Rational Horse Shoeing and Wagon Making
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with rules, tables, recipes, etc., useful to
manufactures, blacksmiths, machinists,
well-drillers, engineers, liverymen,
horse-shoers, farmers, wagon-makers,
mechanics, amateurs and all others who have
occasion to perform the work for which this
book is primarily intended.
If the share to be sharpened is a hardened share, and it is the
first time it is sharpened, then be careful not to heat it too far
towards the joint, so as to leave the temper as much the same
as possible. For my part, I never follow this rule. I heat it as
much as is needed to draw it out good, and then harden it over
again. But beginners can sharpen a new share once without
hardening it over, if the temper is not entirely out of the share.
To sharpen a share without springing it some is impossibility. N
a device will prevent this, and the only way to set it right is to
heat it all over.
In sharpening a share it is drawn out on one side, and it is
natural that that side is made longer, and as a
result the share must warp. In a circular saw it takes only a
couple of blows on one side to get it out of shape; then what
else can we expect in a plowshare, when all the hammering is
done on one side?
Some smiths turn the bottom side of the share up and hammer
mark the face of the share just as bad as the hammer, so nothing is gained by this. Place the share on the anvil, face
up, and use a hammer with a big round face, and when you get used to this, the best result is obtained. Don't draw
the edge out too thin. There is no need of a thin edge on a plow that has to cut gravel and snags, but for sod
breaking a thin edge is wanted, and the smith has to use his best judgment even in such a case.
and Repair Flopping >>>>