Blacksmith
Modern Blacksmithing
Rational Horse Shoeing and Wagon Making
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with rules, tables, recipes, etc., useful to
manufactures, blacksmiths, machinists,
well-drillers, engineers, liverymen,
horse-shoers, farmers, wagon-makers,
mechanics, amateurs and all others who have
occasion to perform the work for which this
book is primarily intended.
By J.G. Holmstrom 1901
How to Make a Horse Shoe Part 2
I know but a few horse-shoers that are able to weld on a toe
calk good. The reason for their inability is lack of experience in
general blacksmithing. Most shoers know not how to make a
fire to weld in. They are too stingy about the coal; try to weld in
dirt and cinders, with a low fire, the shoe almost touching the
tuyer iron. I advise all horse-shoers to read my article about the
fire.
I have made a hammer specially for horse-shoeing with a peen
different from other hammers. With this hammer the beginner
will have no trouble in drawing out the calks. See Figure 8,
No.8. The hammers as now used by most smiths are short and
clumsy; they interfere too much with the air, and give a bump
instead of a sharp cutting blow that will stick to the calk.
The shoe should be so shaped at the heel as to give plenty of
room for the frog; the heels to be spread out as wide as
possible. This is important, for if the shoe is wide between the
heels the horse will stand more firm, and it will be to him a.
comfortable shoe. The shoe should not be wider between the
calks at the expense of same, as is done by some shoers, for this is only a half calk, and the heel is no wider. The shoe
should not be fitted to the foot when hot, as it will injure the hoof if it is burned to the foot.
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