by J.M. Drew St. Paul Publishing Company
1918
Fig. 27 illustrates a good way of ironing singletrees. The end
irons and hooks are made of 7-16 round iron and the middle iron
is of 1-2 inch round. Fig. 28 shows the manner of making the
hooks. It should be noticed that the end of the hook comes
within 7-16 of an inch of touching the inside of the back of the
eye. This prevents the tug from coming unhooked of itself. The
hook has to be turned up as shown ill the cut, (Fig. 27), before
the tug can be hooked or unhooked.
At Fig. 29 is shown the way to make a hook with a bar across
the end to prevent unhooking. The bar is made by leaving a
lump on the end when the hook is drawn out and then flattening
the lump in the vise and drawing the ends out round over the
edge of the anvil.
Another good, strong singletree is shown in Fig. 30. It is made of
hickory or oak 1 ¼ inches thick and two inches wide, tapering to
1 ½ inches wide at the ends. A strap of iron 3-16 inch thick and
1 inch wide runs the whole length of the back and is fastened by
holding the hooks. The hooks have bars across the
ends as shown in Fig. 29.
MAKING A SWIVEL
To make a swivel for an ordinary log chain, take a
piece of Norway iron or mild steel about half inch by
inch in size and draw out one end to about 3/8 inch
and 3 inches long. Leave about one inch in length
the original size of the iron and draw out another
three inches to 3/8. See A in Fig. 31. Punch a
half-inch hole in the middle of the flat part. Next
make a mandrel as shown at B, of 7/8 inch round
iron by drawing out a short bit of the end to about
7-16 inch in size. Heat the iron first made and work
it into shape over the end of the mandrel as shown
at E. Next make the eye, C, by bending and
welding a piece of 7-16 inch iron, heat it and insert
the shank in the hole in A and put on a washer and
rivet down. Finish by welding the ends of A the
same as a chain link. D shows the completed swivel.
