by J.M. Drew St. Paul Publishing Company
1918
A in Fig. 34 shows an ordinary blacksmith's flat drill. B is a drill
with a twisted end. This latter will cut faster and easier than a
flat drill but cannot be refined by hammering in the same manner
as a flat drill and therefore cannot be made to stand as much
abuse as the flat drill.
To make a flat drill, use steel of about the same carbon as for
cold chisels. Draw down, round, to a size somewhat smaller than
the drill needed, then flatten out the end as at C a trifle larger
than necessary so as to allow for filing or grinding down to size.
Out off the corners on the hardy, then allow cooling, and filing to
shape as shown in the cut.
The twisted end drill is started in the same manner as the flat
drill. After flattening out the end as shown at C, the twist is
started in the end by using a small pair of tongs, or by holding
the end in the corner of the vise while the drill is turned. After
hammer and striking quick, light blows; holding the steel
meantime in such position that the hammering will increase
the twist.
To temper a drill, if it is a large one, use the same method as
in tempering the cold chisel, already described, excepting
that it should be made a little harder (purple, instead of blue).
In the case of a small drill, heat to a dull red and cool off
entirely, then, after polishing, heat up to the proper color by
holding against J. piece of hot iron or by pinching with a pair
of hot tongs.
The average farm blacksmith would better buy twist drills of
small sizes, and make the larger ones as he needs them.
PLOW WORK.
particularly difficult work, still it calls for a knowledge of steel, and a practical knowledge of how a plowshare should be
shaped to run well. For sharpening an ordinary plow share in case one man has to do the work alone, a round faced
hammer weighing about 2 ½ or 3 pounds is the proper tool to use. With it the edge of the share may be drawn out by
hammering on the upper side while the lower side is kept straight by being held flat upon the anvil. For quick work in
drawing out a very dull or thick share, especially when a striker is at hand to help, the share is turned bottom up and
the edge drawn out by using the cross pein of the sledge.
The greatest care must be used not to burn the edge of the share while heating. He is a very careful blacksmith who
never burned the edge of a plow share. In drawing out the edge of the share near the point, the point itself is very
apt to be bent around too far "to land." This condition is not easy to avoid nor to remedy. It will not do to rest the
edge against the anvil to drive the joint back, for this would dull the edge. Usually the edge is rested on a hardwood
block while the point is being driven back. This accomplishes the purpose without spoiling the edge.
The welding on of new points where old ones have worn too short is a piece of work which is apt to give trouble to
the young blacksmith when he tries it for the first time.
piece cut from an old share is good), and not from a rasp or
from any steel high in carbon as such will give too much
trouble in welding. The edges should be drawn down thin,
and after placing on the point of the share the new piece
and the old point should be covered with borax and iron
filings. The welding should be done in the fire, at least the
first part of it. After starting the weld in this way it may be
finished on the anvil; the end cut off to the proper shape,
"the edge drawn out sharp and the land side squared up.
In making a weld of this kind it is necessary to heat very
slowly in order that the two parts may reach the welding
heat at the same time. Quick heating would cause the thin
new point to burn before the larger part got hot enough to
weld. No amateur smith should attempt this job until he
has had considerable experience in welding steel. If he is
at all uncertain of his ability to manage a heat of this kind,
he should practice on two small pieces of plow steel before
tempered in the ordinary way, heat to a uniform light red heat and sprinkle over the entire upper surface powdered
red prussiate of potash; this will melt and flow over the surface of the steel, when it should be plunged into cold
water or brine. For use in land containing no solid stones it is usually safe to harden the plow share quite hard. This,
in case of shares made of good steel, may be done by simply heating to a full red color and plunging into water or
brine. It is best to plunge the share in thick side first. Fig. 37 shows a handy tool for holding the so-called slip-shares.
It is a convenience in holding them while sharpening and it prevents their warping. The shares which may be taken off
the plow with the landside and brace on are the most convenient to handle in sharpening, and give no trouble by
warping out of shape.